• Okra Lyrics
• Best Tasting Okra Varieties

Okra (also known as gumbo), is a tall-growing, warm-season, annual vegetable from the same family as hollyhock, rose of Sharon and hibiscus. The immature pods are used for soups, canning and stews or as a fried or boiled vegetable. The hibiscus like flowers and upright plant (3 to 6 feet or more in height) have ornamental value for backyard gardens.

Okra, also known as gumbo or ladies’ fingers, is a warm-season vegetable. It is a good source of minerals, vitamins, antioxidants, and fiber. It contains a sticky juice that people use to thicken. All you need is okra, onion, tomatoes and a few slices of bacon for this easy and delicious dish. Pickled Okra After just 2 weeks you'll have a perfect little jar of homemade pickled okra.

Recommended Varieties

Annie Oakley (hybrid; 52 days to harvest; compact plant; extra tender pods)

Dwarf Green Long Pod (52 days; ribbed pods)

Clemson Spineless (56 days; AAS winner)

When to Plant

Because okra seeds do not germinate well in cool soils, plant seeds after the soil has warmed in the spring, probably a week to 10 days after the date of the last frost for your area.

Spacing & Depth

Sow seeds 1 inch deep in hills 12 to 24 inches apart. When the seedlings are 3 inches tall, thin all but the one strongest plant per hill. The seeds may be soaked, wrapped in moist paper toweling or in water overnight, to accelerate germination.

Care

Okra usually grows well in any good garden soil. Shallow cultivation near the plants keeps down weeds.

Harvesting

The pods should be picked (usually cut) while they are tender and immature (2 to 3 inches long for most varieties). They must be picked often—at least every other day. Okra plants have short hairs that may irritate bare skin. Wear gloves and long sleeves to harvest okra. Use pruning shears for clean cuts that do not harm the rest of the plant. When the stem is difficult to cut, the pod is probably too old to use. The large pods rapidly become tough and woody. The plants grow and bear until frost, which quickly blackens and kills them. Four or five plants produce enough okra for most families unless you wish to can or freeze some for winter use.

Common Problems

Aphids—Watch for buildup of colonies of aphids on the undersides of the leaves.

For more information on aphids, see our feature in the Bug Review.

Cabbage worms—Three species of cabbage worms (imported cabbage worms, cabbage loopers and diamond back moth worms) commonly attack the leaves and heads of cabbage and related cole crops. Imported cabbage worms are velvety green caterpillars. The moth is white and commonly is seen during the day hovering over plants in the garden. Cabbage loopers ('measuring worms') are smooth, light green caterpillars. The cabbage looper crawls by doubling up (to form a loop) and then moving the front of its body forward. The moth is brown and is most active at night. Diamondback worms are small, pale, green caterpillars that are pointed on both ends. The moth is gray, with diamond-shaped markings when the wings are closed. The damage caused by diamondback larvae looks like shot holes in the leaf.

The larval or worm stages of these insects cause damage by eating holes in the leaves. The adult moths or butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves but otherwise do not damage the plants. The worms are not easy to see because they are fairly small and blend with the cabbage leaves. Cabbage worms are quite destructive and can ruin the crop if not controlled. They are even worse in fall plantings than in spring gardens because the population has had several months to increase. About the time of the first frost in the fall, moth and caterpillar numbers finally begin to decline drastically.

For more information on cabbage worms, see our feature in the Bug Review.

Questions & Answers

Q. Should I remove the old okra pods?

A. Yes. Maturing, older, tough pods sap strength that could go to keeping the plant producing new pods daily. Unless you desire ripe pods for dried arrangements or seed saving, overmature pods should be removed and composted.

Q. Why doesn't my seed germinate even after soaking?

A. Okra seed does not keep well. Buy fresh seed each season, or save seed of non- hybrid varieties yourself by allowing a few pods on your best plant to mature. When the pods turn brown and begin to split at the seams, harvest them and shell the seeds from the pods. Dry seed thoroughly for several days, then store in a cool, dry place in tightly closed containers until next season.

Q. My okra plants grew over 6 feet tall and the pods were difficult to pick. What should I do?

A. Choose one of the new dwarf or basal-branching varieties, such as Annie Oakley, that grow only 2-1/2 to 5 feet tall.

Q. What causes yellowing, wilting and death of plants in midsummer?

A. These conditions are caused by either verticillium or fusarium wilt. Okra varieties, unlike certain tomato varieties, are not resistant to verticillium and fusarium wilt. Rotate crops to prevent buildup of crop-specific strains of these diseases in your garden.

Selection & Storage

Gumbo is Swahili for okra. The recent upsurge in the popularity of gumbo has also brought renewed attention to okra. Okra was brought to the new world by African slaves during the slave trade.

The pods must be harvested when they are very young. Preferably two inches long although three inch pods can also be salvaged. Harvest daily as the pods go quickly from tender to tough with increased size.

Refrigerate unwashed, dry okra pods in the vegetable crisper, loosely wrapped in perforated plastic bags. Wet pods will quickly mold and become slimy. Okra will keep for only two or three days. When the ridges and tips of the pod start to turn dark, use it or lose it. Once it starts to darken, okra will quickly deteriorate.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Okra is a powerhouse of valuable nutrients. Nearly half of which is soluble fiber in the form of gums and pectins. Soluble fiber helps to lower serum cholesterol, reducing the risk of heart disease. The other half is insoluble fiber which helps to keep the intestinal tract healthy decreasing the risk of some forms of cancer, especially colorectal cancer. Nearly 10% of the recommended levels of vitamin B6 and folic acid are also present in a half cup of cooked okra.

Keying suite 11.1 serial. Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup sliced, cooked okra)

Calories 25
Dietary Fiber 2 grams
Protein 1.52 grams
Carbohydrates 5.76 grams
Vitamin A 460 IU
Vitamin C 13.04 mg
Folic acid 36.5 micrograms
Calcium 50.4 mg
Iron 0.4 mg
Potassium 256.6 mg
Magnesium 46 mg

Preparation & Serving

Okra exudes a unique mucilaginous juice which is responsible for its thickening power in the famous Louisiana Creole gumbo dish. Aside from gumbo, okra compliments tomatoes, onions and corn, shellfish and fish stock. Okra has a subtle taste, similar to the flavor of eggplant.

Home Preservation

Freezing is the best method for long term home storage of okra. Freeze only young, tender okra. Okra must be blanched before freezing, as with all vegetables. Unblanched okra will quickly become tough and suffer huge nutrient, flavor and color loss during freezing. Follow the procedure outlined below for successful home freezing.

To Prepare Okra for Freezing

Since freezing does not improve the quality of any vegetable, it is important to start with fresh green pods. Avoid pods longer than 2 to 2-1/2 inches long. Okra that is at peak quality for eating is best for freezing.

1. In a blanching pot or large pot with tight fitting lid, bring about 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil.

2. Meanwhile, wash, and trim of stems of okra pods, leaving caps whole.

3. Blanch no more than one pound of okra at a time. Drop pods into boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid.

4. Start timing the blanching immediately and blanch for four minutes.

5. Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5 to 6 quart container or use the sink.

6. Remove the okra from the blanching water with a slotted spoon or blanching basket.

7. Emerge the okra in the ice water bath for 5 min. or until completely cool. If ice is unavailable, use several changes of cold tap water to cool the vegetables.

8. Remove from water and drain.

9. Label and date, quart size, zip-closure freezer bags.

10. Pack okra into prepared freezer bags, squeeze out as much air as possible by folding the top portion of the bag over. Gently push air out and seal. Freeze for up to one year at 32°F or below.

Note: Blanching water and ice water bath may be used over and over again. Return blanching water to a boil after each batch of vegetables is blanched and replenish water if necessary.

Recipes

Okra and Corn with Tomatoes

Serve this Carolina favorite over a bowl of long-grain rice with a piece of hot cornbread. The okra should be young, not longer than 2 inches. Vine ripen tomatoes and fresh bell peppers add to the richness of this dish.

• 2 tablespoons each butter and canola oil
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced into rounds
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon each thyme, red pepper flakes and basil
• 1 green bell pepper, seeded and finely diced
• 3 large fresh ripe, tomatoes seeded and chopped
• 4 ears corn, remove kernels, about 2 cups
  (may use frozen or canned whole kernel, drained)
• 2 cups small okra pods, left whole or 1/4-inch-thick rounds
• 1/2 cup water or chicken stock
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

In a 10 inch iron skillet or heavy pan, heat olive oil and add onions, bay leaves, thyme, basil, and red pepper flakes. Sauté, and stir until onions are limp add bell pepper and continue cooking until onions are translucent. Add tomatoes, okra, water, salt and pepper. Reduce heat to low, and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add corn and cook 5 minutes longer. Taste, adjust seasoning if needed. Serve hot.

Makes 6 servings.

Okra and Green Beans

This dish tastes even better after refrigerating overnight. The flavors blend into a wonderful taste sensation. Serve it warm or cold. This dish can also be oven-baked. Instead of simmering, lightly cover with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes at 350°F.

• 3/4 pound fresh okra, uncut
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• Vinegar (optional)
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 3/4 pound fresh green beans
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed then chopped
• 1 cup water plus 2 tablespoonssalt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 6-ounce can tomato paste

Wash okra pods, trim stems, do not remove caps. If desired soak okra in vinegar for 30 minutes to remove some of the stickiness. Rinse well and drain. Wash beans and cut into 3 inch lengths. Combine water, tomato paste, olive oil, onion, garlic, salt and pepper in a sauce pan and mix well.

Heat, stirring frequently, until mixture comet to boil. Add okra and beans and additional water if necessary to almost cover vegetables.

Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer gently until vegetables are crisp-tender, 20 to 30 minutes.

Makes 6 servings.

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) is a warm-season crop grown throughout South Carolina. It is a tall, upright plant with a hibiscus-like flower that originated in Africa. The immature, young seed pods are the edible part of this plant and are an important ingredient in southern cuisine.

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) is a tall, upright plant with a hibiscus-like flower.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2018 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Okra growing in the garden.
Millie Davenport, ©2018 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Planting

Okra grows best at temperatures between 75 and 90 °F. When planting okra, gardeners want to ensure that the soil temperature is warm enough so that seeds germinate and begin to grow, as cool soils can lead to slow growth and seedling diseases. The optimum soil temperature for seed germination lies somewhere between 70 to 95 °F, so gardeners will want to check the soil temperature at a depth of 4 inches before planting. If soil temperatures are less than 65 °F, at a soil depth of 4 inches, gardeners should hold off on planting until soil temperatures are warmer. The crop can be grown on all soil types, although sandy loam soils high in organic matter are the most desirable. It is important that the soil be well-drained. Plant in full sun for best productivity.

Okra Lyrics

Many gardeners soak the seed in water before planting to improve germination. This may help; however, seedling death may still occur if the seed is planted in cold soil.

Planting Dates

Piedmont: Abbeville, Anderson, Cherokee, Chester, Edgefield, Fairfield, Greenville, Greenwood, Lancaster, Laurens, McCormick, Newberry, Oconee, Pickens, Saluda, Spartanburg, Union, and York counties.

Central: Aiken, Allendale, Bamberg, Barnwell, Calhoun, Chesterfield, Clarendon, Darlington, Dillon, Florence, Kershaw, Lee, Lexington, Marion, Marlboro, Orangeburg, Richland, and Sumter counties.

Coastal: Beaufort, Berkeley, Charleston, Colleton, Dorchester, Georgetown, Hampton, Horry, Jasper, and Williamsburg counties.

Best Tasting Okra Varieties

Okra should be planted in rows 3 to 6 feet apart with 9 to 12 inches between seeds in the row at a depth of ¾ inch deep. Many gardeners plant multiple seeds per hole to ensure a good stand and will go back and thin out extra okra seedlings so that only one plant remains. If this method is used, it is imperative that only one plant be allowed to grow every 9 to 12 inches, or competition between plants will severely impact yields.

Clemson Spineless 80 okra produces dark green pods without spines.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2018 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Recommended Cultivars

• Clemson Spineless 80
• Lee
• Annie Oakley II
• Cajun Delight
• Choppee (Clemson Heirloom Collection-https://www. clemson. edu/public/seed/heirloom. html)
• Burgundy (red okra variety but will turn green when cooked)

Fertilizing

A soil test is always the best method of determining the fertilization needs of the crop. Information on soil testing is available in HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.

Follow the results of a soil test to maintain a soil pH between 5. 8 and 6. 5 and optimal fertility levels. If a soil test has not been taken, apply 25 to 50 pounds of 10-10-10 before planting or other fertilizer that would give between 2½ to 5 pounds of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium per 1,000 square feet. The okra plant has a sensitive balance between vegetation (leaf production) and reproduction (pod production). The use of additional nitrogen should be avoided on vigorous plantings until fruiting begins to manage plant growth and ensure pod production. Okra should be sidedressed with 3 to 6 pounds of calcium nitrate (15. 5-0-0) per 1,000 square feet or 1 to 2 pounds per 100 feet of row. Sidedressing should occur at 3 to 4 weeks after planting and again at 6 to 8 weeks after planting. More applications of calcium nitrate may be needed later, depending on rainfall and how long okra is expected to produce. It is important to supply additional nitrogen late in the season at the time blooms are concentrated at the top of the plant.

Ratooning

During the hottest and often driest parts of the summer, okra may slow down production. If harvest tapers off and okra slows or ceases flower production, then gardeners should try ratooning spring-planted okra (usually around mid-July to mid-August). Ratooning is the process of cutting the stem of a plant, causing it to push out new growth and produce another crop later in the fall. Okra should be mowed or pruned to 6 to 12 inches above the soil line.

Once the plants are cut, gardeners will want to fertilize with a fertilizer that has a 1:2 ratio of nitrogen to potassium, which will encourage new growth and stimulate flower production. Examples of fertilizers with a 1:2 ratio include 4-0-8, 5-0-10, or 10-0-20. Depending on the type of fertilizer used, 2 to 3 pounds of these products should be used per 100 feet of row in a sidedress application. For more information on fertilizing vegetables, please see HGIC 1254, Fertilizing Vegetables. After fertilization, plants should be watered frequently, as this will be the hottest part of the summer. In about 4 to 6 weeks, the ratooned plants will begin producing fruit that can be enjoyed by gardeners up until the first frost of the season.

Watering

Water the garden to provide a uniform moisture supply to the crop. If using a hose or sprinkler, the garden should be watered in the morning so that the foliage is dry before dark. An alternative method to using a hose or sprinkler to water is installing a drip irrigation system. These systems can be installed rather easily and will help to conserve water, keep foliage dry, and target application areas. Whichever method is used, the garden should be watered sufficiently to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Light watering will encourage shallow rooting of the plants. The critical period for soil moisture is during pod set and pod development.

Cultural Practices

Weed control is important in this crop, especially when the plants are small. Cultivation and use of organic mulches are the best methods for weed control. Cultivation should be shallow to prevent damage to the roots of the crop. Organic mulches (2- to 3-inch layer) conserve moisture as well as control weeds.

Harvest & Storage

Okra should be ready to harvest about 60 to 70 days after planting when pods are 2 to 3 inches long. At this stage, the pods are still tender. Larger okra pods will tend to be tough and fibrous. Round-podded okra varieties remain tender at larger pod sizes and are good to use for slicing and freezing. Due to its prolific nature, 25 to 50-row feet of okra may be enough to feed a family for a few months.

Okra grows very fast; therefore, it must be harvested at a minimum of every two days. Do not allow pods to mature on the plant because this will inhibit more pods from developing and reduce the total productivity of the plant. Okra can be harvested by hand, but using pruning shears or a sharp pocket knife can minimize damage to the plant. Handle okra carefully because the pods bruise easily. Okra can be harvested for upwards of twelve weeks if properly watered, fertilized, and picked in a timely manner. When harvest time is over, okra pods can be left on the plant to dry to save seed for next year. Dried okra pods and stalks can look great as flower arrangements or holiday decorations.

The optimum conditions for storing fresh okra are a moist environment and temperatures of 45 to 50 °F. Okra should not be washed before storing it in the refrigerator, as this will speed up decay. If properly harvested, handled, not washed, and stored correctly, one can expect to keep good quality pods in the refrigerator for about seven days.

Problems

Root-decaying diseases, which result in the death of the young seedlings, are the most serious disease problems in this crop. They are more prevalent when the crop is planted in cold, wet soil.

Rotting of small pods after the flowers drop is a fairly common problem with okra. Planting the crop in full sun and providing good air movement through the planting will help to reduce the problem. Proper plant spacing will also help to minimize this problem. The exact cause of this disorder is not known.

Small bumps sometimes develop on the pod, but the cause of these bumps is unknown. Contrary to popular belief, this damage is not caused by the stink bug.

Root-knot nematodes can be a serious problem with okra. If a plant is stunted, yellow, or not producing at full capacity, then pull the plant out of the ground and check for galls on the roots. These galls are caused by nematodes, which are microscopic worms. An effective nematode control program should include crop rotation and sanitation, or removal of plants and roots if infected. More information about controlling nematodes in the home garden is available in HGIC 2216, Root-Knot Nematodes in the Vegetable Garden.

Stink bugs will cause the pods to be twisted and distorted.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2018 HGIC, Clemson Extension

All crops should be planted on a rotation to help reduce disease and nematode problems. Okra plantings should not follow crops that are susceptible to nematodes such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, and sweet potato.

Common insect pests found on okra include aphids, corn earworm, stink bugs, and leaffooted bugs. Aphids often feed on the sap of the okra plant and can attract ants. The ants farm the aphids so that they can harvest the honeydew from the aphid excretions. Limiting and properly managing nitrogen can aid in the management of aphids and ants. Corn earworms are often found eating into the pod, while stink bugs and leaf-footed bugs will cause the pods to be twisted and distorted.

References:

2019 Southeastern U. S. Vegetable Crop Handbook. Page 55. https://content. ces. ncsu. edu/southeastern-us-vegetable-crop-handbook